July 2009
Day three: Sprechen sie...speck?!
Today was to be another hiking day for us. We got up, got ready and caught the local
SAD bus before 10:30. Our destination: Ortesei, where we would catch the lift all the way
up to the top of Seceda, over 2500 meters above sea level. This is one of those rides
that made Marisa's stomach turn. The first part was a long but fairly benign ride in a
smaller gondola. The second part is in a larger cable car packed with people (and a
large dog), on cables that appear to hang across a valley and then ascend the rocks on
the other side. At one point, it looked like we’d smack into the rock wall. In really, it
lasted little more than five minutes, and we were on our way. As we exited the lift, we
could tell we were way up there because of the chilly air and the lack of trees. The views
were nothing short of breathtaking...in every direction. Don't believe us? Check out this
video!
We walked eastward and upward from the lift station, towards the mountain ridge that
marks the start of the Odle group. Their rugged peaks are the quintessential image of
the Dolomites, like the jagged teeth of an enormous beast. Some clouds swirled
among the spires, creating a dramatic effect. We continued along the ridge trail until we
came to a large gap in the wall of rock that allowed a view to the Villnostal (Val di Funes)
on the other side...straight down! Chris and Allie climbed to the top of a small peak for
an even better view, while Marisa (and her fear of heights) was content to play
photographer from below.
Lunch was 300 meters below at the Troier Hutte with an eclectic mix of patrons,
including small babies, dogs, etc. Lunch was actually quite good—wienerschnitzel that
would be good at any elevation let alone a mountain hut, and two different dishes with
speck dumplings.
After lunch we continued on down to the Col Raiser lift, eventually reaching the tree line.
Now, you can do this whole walk (Seceda to Col Raiser) in the direction we did, which
seems to make the most sense. Or, you could do the uphill version, as many others
seemed intent to do—some enjoying it more than others. We were pretty sure the man
carrying the baby stroller up the mountain was not enjoying one minute of it; enjoying it
less was the gentleman with the expensive leather loafers.
All in all, while we thought it wasn't possible, this walk topped the one the day before—
although we felt it the next day. The views kept astonishing us, everywhere we turned. It
was an exhilarating walk.
From the Col Raiser gondola, we saw a number of people walking down the paved path
to Santa Cristina, including yet another baby stroller or two. The walk back to Selva via
the local roads took about a half hour, not including stopping to provide directions to a
lost Italian woman who spoke not a word of English. Back in Selva, we rewarded
ourselves with drinks and a nice session of people watching in the outdoor area of Café
Des Alpes in the center of town.
Dinner was practically across the street from our apartment at the rustic Speckkeller,
which specializes in local Tyrolean cuisine. We ordered entirely too much food (the
portions here, we learned, are not small!). Highlights: homemade spinach ravioli,
risotto with shrimp and zucchini, and spinach gnocchi.
Today's photos
Next: Day 4-Otzi
All of our trip photos
Home
Today was to be another hiking day for us. We got up, got ready and caught the local
SAD bus before 10:30. Our destination: Ortesei, where we would catch the lift all the way
up to the top of Seceda, over 2500 meters above sea level. This is one of those rides
that made Marisa's stomach turn. The first part was a long but fairly benign ride in a
smaller gondola. The second part is in a larger cable car packed with people (and a
large dog), on cables that appear to hang across a valley and then ascend the rocks on
the other side. At one point, it looked like we’d smack into the rock wall. In really, it
lasted little more than five minutes, and we were on our way. As we exited the lift, we
could tell we were way up there because of the chilly air and the lack of trees. The views
were nothing short of breathtaking...in every direction. Don't believe us? Check out this
video!
We walked eastward and upward from the lift station, towards the mountain ridge that
marks the start of the Odle group. Their rugged peaks are the quintessential image of
the Dolomites, like the jagged teeth of an enormous beast. Some clouds swirled
among the spires, creating a dramatic effect. We continued along the ridge trail until we
came to a large gap in the wall of rock that allowed a view to the Villnostal (Val di Funes)
on the other side...straight down! Chris and Allie climbed to the top of a small peak for
an even better view, while Marisa (and her fear of heights) was content to play
photographer from below.
Lunch was 300 meters below at the Troier Hutte with an eclectic mix of patrons,
including small babies, dogs, etc. Lunch was actually quite good—wienerschnitzel that
would be good at any elevation let alone a mountain hut, and two different dishes with
speck dumplings.
After lunch we continued on down to the Col Raiser lift, eventually reaching the tree line.
Now, you can do this whole walk (Seceda to Col Raiser) in the direction we did, which
seems to make the most sense. Or, you could do the uphill version, as many others
seemed intent to do—some enjoying it more than others. We were pretty sure the man
carrying the baby stroller up the mountain was not enjoying one minute of it; enjoying it
less was the gentleman with the expensive leather loafers.
All in all, while we thought it wasn't possible, this walk topped the one the day before—
although we felt it the next day. The views kept astonishing us, everywhere we turned. It
was an exhilarating walk.
From the Col Raiser gondola, we saw a number of people walking down the paved path
to Santa Cristina, including yet another baby stroller or two. The walk back to Selva via
the local roads took about a half hour, not including stopping to provide directions to a
lost Italian woman who spoke not a word of English. Back in Selva, we rewarded
ourselves with drinks and a nice session of people watching in the outdoor area of Café
Des Alpes in the center of town.
Dinner was practically across the street from our apartment at the rustic Speckkeller,
which specializes in local Tyrolean cuisine. We ordered entirely too much food (the
portions here, we learned, are not small!). Highlights: homemade spinach ravioli,
risotto with shrimp and zucchini, and spinach gnocchi.
Today's photos
Next: Day 4-Otzi
All of our trip photos
Home
Climb Every Mountain:
Our long-awaited trip to the
Dolomites...and Munich
Our long-awaited trip to the
Dolomites...and Munich
Overview: Plenty of options, but where to stay?
Overview: Hiking in the Val Gardena
Day 1: Stau!
Day 2: This is why we wanted to visit!
Day 3: Sprechen zie...speck?
Day 4: Bolzano, Merano and a date with Ötzi
Day 5: The flying telephone booths
Day 6: I love a parade
Day 7: One little victory
Days 8-9: Munich
Wrap up: Weather, packing; useful resources
Wrap up: Food, language and final thoughts
Home
Overview: Hiking in the Val Gardena
Day 1: Stau!
Day 2: This is why we wanted to visit!
Day 3: Sprechen zie...speck?
Day 4: Bolzano, Merano and a date with Ötzi
Day 5: The flying telephone booths
Day 6: I love a parade
Day 7: One little victory
Days 8-9: Munich
Wrap up: Weather, packing; useful resources
Wrap up: Food, language and final thoughts
Home