Fortnight in France:
Our sun-soaked sojourn in the
Dordogne, Languedoc and Provence
Our sun-soaked sojourn in the
Dordogne, Languedoc and Provence
Provence to Nice
We were up early with hopes of getting to the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
before it got horrendously crowded. We should have gotten up earlier. We
aimed to be there at 9:30 but arrived at 10:15 and had to park about 15
minutes away, which was not too bad. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has a very large
and interesting market, with lots of antiques but other things as well –
baskets, food, fabrics, jewelry, clothing, soaps (opium soap-would this
make it through customs? we decided not to try) and lavender products.
Allie and Marisa shopped for a while, picking up a few small souvenirs. We
left as the crowds became oppressive at around 11:30. It is a very cute
town, with attractive cafes along the river…but we would like to visit when it
isn’t market day.
We drove past Gordes and to the Abbey de Senanque, the famous setting
on the cover of the DK and other guide books for the area. The lavender
had just started to bloom, although it would probably be better in a week or
two hence. Nevertheless, we did get our photos of the abbey with the
lavender in front. The road down into the valley where the abbey is located
is not for the faint of heart. It is steep at parts and only wide enough for one
vehicle.
We drove back to Gordes, parked and walked into town in desperate
search of a bathroom. We did some “menu shopping” and discovered
many restaurants were on the expensive side (15E for a main course). We
found an unassuming little pizzeria across from the chateau with very good
pizza – fresh herbs and ingredients. We lingered over our pizzas, wine and
glaces.
This is when we hit the wall. Two weeks on the go, and we finally, in
unison, hit the wall. We had made plans to drive all the way to Sault to see
the more impressive lavender fields and to get the true flavor of the
Luberon. We were also planning to visit Glanum afterwards for a bit more
Roman history. But we were all just plain tired. We came back to the hotel
for a dip in the pool and a lounge beneath the trees in the hotel’s beautiful
garden. It felt nice to lounge like lazy tourists for once.
We had drinks and later dinner at one of the cafes in town, in a prime spot
for people watching. We noted that the cafe across the street did not have
much of a dinner crowd – then realized it had no TV for the soccer fans. For
less than 50E, we enjoyed two pastas and a big salad, plus a liter of wine
and drinks for Allie.
Once again, it was time to pack our bags.
Day 13
Breakfast was in the garden again. We packed up the car, bid adieu to
Zazou, and headed to Nice…about a 2-½ hour drive, almost all on the
tollway.
We arrived in Nice around 1 pm and decided to find the hotel first, drop the
bags then turn in the car. Instead, we found Hertz first, but couldn’t find a
place to park the car. So back to Plan A. We found the hotel after several
trips around the block. We dropped the bags and asked the hotel to call for
directions to Hertz. It turns out we were supposed to have put the car in the
Hotel Meridien’s underground parking lot. Good thing to know…. It took
some more trips around the block to end up in position to get into the
garage, but we did it, and breathed a big sigh of relief when the car was
finally parked.
A side note here: the heart of Nice is one of the most frustrating places to
drive a car that we have ever encountered, a veritible Rubik’s cube of one-
way streets and hidden street name placards. Mid-town Manhattan is a
breeze compared to this place.
We spent the better part of an hour in the Hertz office dealing with the
‘dent.’ Word will come from Hertz corporate in a few weeks (actually word
has now come, and it isn't pretty). We did have the presence of mind to
take a picture of the dent before turning the car in, just in case.
At the Hotel le Grimaldi, we found out that they did not have our reserved
junior suite available…but they did put us in a double superior, which has
a very nice bathroom and a view over the church next door (at a substantial
savings).
After resting in our room for a few minutes, we set out for a walk in old
Nice. We liked old Nice a lot, it kind of reminded of us of Naples with its
narrow streets. Except in place of the one-room apartments of the poor in
Naples (the bassi), these streets featured art galleries, restaurants and
upscale shopping.
We stopped for a snack around 3 – glaces, a panini and some beverages,
then continued walking around old Nice and then along the sea wall and
beach – which is rocks, not sand.
That night, our last in France, we sought out a recommended Italian
trattoria, the Restaurant Gesu in the heart of Vieux Nice. It is an extremely
casual place with a simple menu, and it was packed with locals at 8:00 on
a Monday night. We soaked up the atmosphere, the wine and our hearty
servings of pasta, polenta and pizza and reflected on another successful
vacation trip.
After toasts of ‘Vive la France’ we headed back to our hotel with heavy
hearts and set the alarm for 4 am.
Day 14
The trip home again was a breeze. The taxi to the airport was a breeze, the
flight to Frankfurt was a breeze, the connection was a breeze, and our
arrival in Chicago was a breeze.
As is our custom, we had our first brief discussion about next year's trip.
Norway was the early front-runner (although we've now shifted gears and
seem to be heading in the exact opposite direction - to Australia).
Next > Accommodations
See all of our photos on Webshots
our travels
home
contact us
We were up early with hopes of getting to the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
before it got horrendously crowded. We should have gotten up earlier. We
aimed to be there at 9:30 but arrived at 10:15 and had to park about 15
minutes away, which was not too bad. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has a very large
and interesting market, with lots of antiques but other things as well –
baskets, food, fabrics, jewelry, clothing, soaps (opium soap-would this
make it through customs? we decided not to try) and lavender products.
Allie and Marisa shopped for a while, picking up a few small souvenirs. We
left as the crowds became oppressive at around 11:30. It is a very cute
town, with attractive cafes along the river…but we would like to visit when it
isn’t market day.
We drove past Gordes and to the Abbey de Senanque, the famous setting
on the cover of the DK and other guide books for the area. The lavender
had just started to bloom, although it would probably be better in a week or
two hence. Nevertheless, we did get our photos of the abbey with the
lavender in front. The road down into the valley where the abbey is located
is not for the faint of heart. It is steep at parts and only wide enough for one
vehicle.
We drove back to Gordes, parked and walked into town in desperate
search of a bathroom. We did some “menu shopping” and discovered
many restaurants were on the expensive side (15E for a main course). We
found an unassuming little pizzeria across from the chateau with very good
pizza – fresh herbs and ingredients. We lingered over our pizzas, wine and
glaces.
This is when we hit the wall. Two weeks on the go, and we finally, in
unison, hit the wall. We had made plans to drive all the way to Sault to see
the more impressive lavender fields and to get the true flavor of the
Luberon. We were also planning to visit Glanum afterwards for a bit more
Roman history. But we were all just plain tired. We came back to the hotel
for a dip in the pool and a lounge beneath the trees in the hotel’s beautiful
garden. It felt nice to lounge like lazy tourists for once.
We had drinks and later dinner at one of the cafes in town, in a prime spot
for people watching. We noted that the cafe across the street did not have
much of a dinner crowd – then realized it had no TV for the soccer fans. For
less than 50E, we enjoyed two pastas and a big salad, plus a liter of wine
and drinks for Allie.
Once again, it was time to pack our bags.
Day 13
Breakfast was in the garden again. We packed up the car, bid adieu to
Zazou, and headed to Nice…about a 2-½ hour drive, almost all on the
tollway.
We arrived in Nice around 1 pm and decided to find the hotel first, drop the
bags then turn in the car. Instead, we found Hertz first, but couldn’t find a
place to park the car. So back to Plan A. We found the hotel after several
trips around the block. We dropped the bags and asked the hotel to call for
directions to Hertz. It turns out we were supposed to have put the car in the
Hotel Meridien’s underground parking lot. Good thing to know…. It took
some more trips around the block to end up in position to get into the
garage, but we did it, and breathed a big sigh of relief when the car was
finally parked.
A side note here: the heart of Nice is one of the most frustrating places to
drive a car that we have ever encountered, a veritible Rubik’s cube of one-
way streets and hidden street name placards. Mid-town Manhattan is a
breeze compared to this place.
We spent the better part of an hour in the Hertz office dealing with the
‘dent.’ Word will come from Hertz corporate in a few weeks (actually word
has now come, and it isn't pretty). We did have the presence of mind to
take a picture of the dent before turning the car in, just in case.
At the Hotel le Grimaldi, we found out that they did not have our reserved
junior suite available…but they did put us in a double superior, which has
a very nice bathroom and a view over the church next door (at a substantial
savings).
After resting in our room for a few minutes, we set out for a walk in old
Nice. We liked old Nice a lot, it kind of reminded of us of Naples with its
narrow streets. Except in place of the one-room apartments of the poor in
Naples (the bassi), these streets featured art galleries, restaurants and
upscale shopping.
We stopped for a snack around 3 – glaces, a panini and some beverages,
then continued walking around old Nice and then along the sea wall and
beach – which is rocks, not sand.
That night, our last in France, we sought out a recommended Italian
trattoria, the Restaurant Gesu in the heart of Vieux Nice. It is an extremely
casual place with a simple menu, and it was packed with locals at 8:00 on
a Monday night. We soaked up the atmosphere, the wine and our hearty
servings of pasta, polenta and pizza and reflected on another successful
vacation trip.
After toasts of ‘Vive la France’ we headed back to our hotel with heavy
hearts and set the alarm for 4 am.
Day 14
The trip home again was a breeze. The taxi to the airport was a breeze, the
flight to Frankfurt was a breeze, the connection was a breeze, and our
arrival in Chicago was a breeze.
As is our custom, we had our first brief discussion about next year's trip.
Norway was the early front-runner (although we've now shifted gears and
seem to be heading in the exact opposite direction - to Australia).
Next > Accommodations
See all of our photos on Webshots
our travels
home
contact us
Sunday market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Abbaye de Senanque - lavender
beginning to bloom, but it isn't full yet
beginning to bloom, but it isn't full yet
Gordes
Sunflower field near St. Remy
Church in Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice
Nice - evening on the Promenade des
Anglais
Anglais
