Wildflowers and a Mighty Wind:
Nine days in the Peloponnese and Athens.
Nine days in the Peloponnese and Athens.
Monemvasia: a one-way trip to the past
We awoke around 7:30, cleaned up, packed up our smaller items, and
headed up to breakfast. We were the only ones there, and probably the
only guests at the hotel that day.
Again we drove to Diros Caves to see if they were open. And again, we
were without luck, despite pleading our case of having traveled 4,500
miles. Shrugging our collective shoulders, we headed back to check out.
It was quite cloudy and a bit rainy during our drive toward Gythio, which was
otherwise filled with interesting twisty turn-y roads (the kind Chris likes to
drive on). Thousands of orange trees along the way were laden with those
amazing Greek oranges.
Stopping for a few minutes to take pictures at Gythio, we decided we were
glad we hadn't stayed there (as we had planned early on). We hit traffic in
Skala, and some road construction work before arriving at Monemvasia
just after noon.
Monemvasia really caught our eye in the guide books as yet another
unique and different experience. During its heyday under Turkish and
Venetian occupations, Monemvasia was an active trading port and home to
some 50,000 people—most of them in the acropolis, or upper town.
Situated on a rock cut off from the mainland by an earthquake in the 300s
(AD), today it is mostly a holiday destination, with ruins scattered across
the upper part of the rock and a carefully preserved “lower town” situated
inside castle (“Kastro”) walls and accessible only on foot. Its name means
"single entrance," because there is only one way to enter it by land.
Today, a causeway connects the island with the newer town on the
mainland. We found a great parking place on the island, near the town
gate, and located the Malvasia Hotel reception not far from there…but then
had to haul bags all the way to the other end of the town (note: rolling bags
don't, uh, roll very well on old and uneven cobblestone streets). Once we
arrived at the right building, we had to carry our bags up to the farthest
possible room.
Exhausted but undaunted, we were rewarded with a nice two-level room
with plenty of space and a gorgeous view from our private patio. The room
was built into the rock, with exposed stones protruding into the bedroom.
To prepare ourselves for a day of exploration, we ate lunch at To Kanoni.
We just happened in after a bit of menu shopping, but it turns out the place
is recommended in the Michelin Guide. We enjoyed a light lunch on the
upstairs patio overlooking Christ in Chains church. A host of feral cats
joined us, and patiently waited for some nibbles. Tasty local fare included
tsatsiki, stamna (beef, cheese, veggies, in a clay pot), calamari with chips,
baked eggplant in tomato with cheese, Mythos beer, white wine and a
Coke. The total was 37 Euro.
It started to rain a few times early, but then cleared and was bright and
sunny for the rest of the day. Our first order of business was to climb up the
mountain to the upper town; the climb was actually not nearly as bad as we
had anticipated. The beautiful Church of Hagia Sophia was closed,
unfortunately, but the views were absolutely magnificent. The vertiginous
view down the cliff from Hagia Sofia was worth the trek up, all by itself!
We trudged along paths thick with chest-high daisies and wild flowers to
explore the rather extensive ruins of the formerly populous city. It's amazing
to think that some 30,000 people called this home at one point. We then
came down and walked throughout the lower town at all levels, all the way
down to the sea wall. A meticulous restoration process continues; we saw
some buildings that hadn't been touched and some that were in the
process of being restored. Because there are no cars inside the walls,
mules cart building supplies in and construction waste out--one little bit at
a time.
Notably, there were very few people in town except for one tour bus of
elderly Greek people, who arrived, clogged the main street for a bit, and
then disappeared.
We returned and refreshed with drinks at the outdoor café of our hotel until
it became too chilly, then descended to the east gate of the city wall and
walked out to the lighthouse. Not really much to see there, actually.
We rested in our room for a bit, then went out to dinner at Matoula. We were
the first patrons in that night, out of three parties total all night. The cheese
pie appetizer was excellent. Grilled shrimp (5 huge ones, shell-on), grilled
sausage, pork in wine sauce, dolmades, a liter of local rose, and Coke
ended up costing 47 Euro…our most expensive meal to that point (still only
about $70US). Afterward, we walked along the main street once more and
then back to hotel for the evening. We all slept soundly.
Next: Athens is calling
See all of our Greece photos
our travels
home
contact us
We awoke around 7:30, cleaned up, packed up our smaller items, and
headed up to breakfast. We were the only ones there, and probably the
only guests at the hotel that day.
Again we drove to Diros Caves to see if they were open. And again, we
were without luck, despite pleading our case of having traveled 4,500
miles. Shrugging our collective shoulders, we headed back to check out.
It was quite cloudy and a bit rainy during our drive toward Gythio, which was
otherwise filled with interesting twisty turn-y roads (the kind Chris likes to
drive on). Thousands of orange trees along the way were laden with those
amazing Greek oranges.
Stopping for a few minutes to take pictures at Gythio, we decided we were
glad we hadn't stayed there (as we had planned early on). We hit traffic in
Skala, and some road construction work before arriving at Monemvasia
just after noon.
Monemvasia really caught our eye in the guide books as yet another
unique and different experience. During its heyday under Turkish and
Venetian occupations, Monemvasia was an active trading port and home to
some 50,000 people—most of them in the acropolis, or upper town.
Situated on a rock cut off from the mainland by an earthquake in the 300s
(AD), today it is mostly a holiday destination, with ruins scattered across
the upper part of the rock and a carefully preserved “lower town” situated
inside castle (“Kastro”) walls and accessible only on foot. Its name means
"single entrance," because there is only one way to enter it by land.
Today, a causeway connects the island with the newer town on the
mainland. We found a great parking place on the island, near the town
gate, and located the Malvasia Hotel reception not far from there…but then
had to haul bags all the way to the other end of the town (note: rolling bags
don't, uh, roll very well on old and uneven cobblestone streets). Once we
arrived at the right building, we had to carry our bags up to the farthest
possible room.
Exhausted but undaunted, we were rewarded with a nice two-level room
with plenty of space and a gorgeous view from our private patio. The room
was built into the rock, with exposed stones protruding into the bedroom.
To prepare ourselves for a day of exploration, we ate lunch at To Kanoni.
We just happened in after a bit of menu shopping, but it turns out the place
is recommended in the Michelin Guide. We enjoyed a light lunch on the
upstairs patio overlooking Christ in Chains church. A host of feral cats
joined us, and patiently waited for some nibbles. Tasty local fare included
tsatsiki, stamna (beef, cheese, veggies, in a clay pot), calamari with chips,
baked eggplant in tomato with cheese, Mythos beer, white wine and a
Coke. The total was 37 Euro.
It started to rain a few times early, but then cleared and was bright and
sunny for the rest of the day. Our first order of business was to climb up the
mountain to the upper town; the climb was actually not nearly as bad as we
had anticipated. The beautiful Church of Hagia Sophia was closed,
unfortunately, but the views were absolutely magnificent. The vertiginous
view down the cliff from Hagia Sofia was worth the trek up, all by itself!
We trudged along paths thick with chest-high daisies and wild flowers to
explore the rather extensive ruins of the formerly populous city. It's amazing
to think that some 30,000 people called this home at one point. We then
came down and walked throughout the lower town at all levels, all the way
down to the sea wall. A meticulous restoration process continues; we saw
some buildings that hadn't been touched and some that were in the
process of being restored. Because there are no cars inside the walls,
mules cart building supplies in and construction waste out--one little bit at
a time.
Notably, there were very few people in town except for one tour bus of
elderly Greek people, who arrived, clogged the main street for a bit, and
then disappeared.
We returned and refreshed with drinks at the outdoor café of our hotel until
it became too chilly, then descended to the east gate of the city wall and
walked out to the lighthouse. Not really much to see there, actually.
We rested in our room for a bit, then went out to dinner at Matoula. We were
the first patrons in that night, out of three parties total all night. The cheese
pie appetizer was excellent. Grilled shrimp (5 huge ones, shell-on), grilled
sausage, pork in wine sauce, dolmades, a liter of local rose, and Coke
ended up costing 47 Euro…our most expensive meal to that point (still only
about $70US). Afterward, we walked along the main street once more and
then back to hotel for the evening. We all slept soundly.
Next: Athens is calling
See all of our Greece photos
our travels
home
contact us
Monemvasisa's lower town; one of many churches
Lunch at To Kanoni, with an audience
View of the Kastro, from the upper town
Ruins of the upper town
Main street of the Kastro
Greece home
The voyage to Nafplio
Mycenae: Bronze Age equinox
To the theater! Epidaurus
Madness? This is Sparti! (and Mystras)
Greek Independence Day on the Mani
Monemvasia: a one-way trip to the past
Athens is calling
A rainy day in Athens
Our big, fat Greek finale / the journey home
Hotel reviews, air, driving, and other logistics
Logistics con't, and some final thoughts
The voyage to Nafplio
Mycenae: Bronze Age equinox
To the theater! Epidaurus
Madness? This is Sparti! (and Mystras)
Greek Independence Day on the Mani
Monemvasia: a one-way trip to the past
Athens is calling
A rainy day in Athens
Our big, fat Greek finale / the journey home
Hotel reviews, air, driving, and other logistics
Logistics con't, and some final thoughts