Wildflowers and a Mighty Wind:
Nine days in the Peloponnese and Athens.
Athens is calling
We awoke with the first morning light; Marisa and Chris strolled down for
some coffee at little café down the road and to catch some of the early-
morning magic of this incredible place. We returned to fetch Allie and
proceeded to the breakfast room, where we were the very first (only??)
guests of the day. Greek new age music played on the stereo, sounding a
little like a Cirque du Soleil soundtrack album. The room was attractive and
clean, with a few little alcoves appointed in a vaguely Turkish style with
pillows and blankets. We enjoyed a filling breakfast of warm breads, meat
and cheese, yogurt with honey and jam, plus fresh orange juice and coffee.
After breakfast we walked upon the parapet walls surrounding the town;
Marisa (the one afraid of heights) only made it part-way, while Chris and
Allie legged it all the way up to the guard house. We took a few more
pictures of the town, but quickly returned to the room to pack. There were
many miles to cover this day, and we wanted to get an early start.
Getting to and from Monemvasia took a bit of time and effort (and the road
is under some construction), but in the end, we thought it well worth it. We
knew Monemvasia had the potential to be kind of touristy, and in peak
season we’re sure it is. But we had the good fortune of being there in low
season. Even in the afternoon, we were practically the only ones there.
And, at night, it was downright eerie to be among the few people staying
inside the Kastro. A big thumbs up!
We checked out, paid up and hauled our bags all the way back through the
town to the car. And then we drove. And we drove some more. And we
drove.
After a quick carry-out lunch in our car from a deli in Sparti, we drove some
more. The weather was just awful, very rainy and gray and somber.
We hit the Athens area around mid-afternoon, and easily found our way
back to the airport to drop off the car (after a quick and convenient refueling,
of course). We then grabbed a cab at the airport queue, and found
ourselves driving through Athens traffic with the World’s Chattiest Non-
English-Speaking Cabbie Who Doesn’t Realize He Doesn’t Speak English
(or WCNESCWDRHDSE for short). Due to our communication difficulties,
he thought we were heading for Monemvasia rather than returning from it,
and tried to order us a rental car from his friend (spezl prize!). After a while,
he grew impatient with our inability to understand him and returned to
playing electronic backgammon while he drove. Chris calmly explained to
him that "Thundercats are go," and he nodded absently in an
understanding manner.
We reached our hotel, the Electra Palace, around 5pm and checked in. By
then, the rain had stopped completely. After dropping off our bags and
freshening up a bit, we headed to the roof deck of the hotel to check out the
view. The web site photos didn't lie…that’s one fine view of the Acropolis
and Plaka, right there!
We wandered around the Plaka area for a bit, taking in the sights and
sounds, before relaxing for drinks at an outdoor bar with umbrella and
space heater, across the street from the Athens Cathedral (11 Euro for
drinks). We then strolled up the wide pedestrian avenue Ermou to watch a
bit of the changing of the guard ceremony in front of the Parliament building
on Syntagma Square.
That evening we dined at Event, which was a little different than we
expected but quite good (and somewhat more expensive, as well). The
calamari was good and the bruschetta appetizer was superlative, rich with
feta and capers and tomatoes. Rabbit stifado, lobster ravioli with spinach
and a crawfish pasta in a pastry (pastitsio), bottle of good local white wine,
plus Coke ran us 98 Euro plus tip. But it was all delicious!
After dinner, the area seemed pretty quiet, and we were tired from our long
day’s journey. So back to the hotel we went.
Next: A rainy day in Athens
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Early morning off Monemvasia
Monemvasia from the mainland
They make great orange juice!
Athens
Sunset view of the Acropolis from the Electra
Palace