Rome & Venice -
An Italian Odyssey
An Italian Odyssey
Rome - part I
Rome – The Eternal City
Most cities in Europe have long, interesting histories for you to learn and
appreciate and a healthy smattering of ancient sites or relics for you to visit
and explore. Rome doesn’t have a history…it IS history.
What we think we know of Rome before we visit comes to us through the
arts. From classic literature (Cicero to Shakespeare) to modern cinema
(Ben-Hur to Gladiator), our sense of Rome is informed by the grandeur of
its glorious past. But whatever it is you’re expecting before you come here,
that’s not it.
Everywhere you look, Rome is a contradiction. A “harmonious clash”
between the modern and the ancient; between the sacred and the profane;
between well-ordered beauty and utter chaos. And between living and
dying if you don’t watch yourself in the crosswalks.
The Colosseum and Fora
There isn’t much that we can tell you about the world’s most famous
ancient structure that hasn’t already been said better in countless travel
books and online guides. We can only tell you our own impressions of the
Flavian Amphitheater (better known as the Roman Colosseum). And the
one thing that struck us the most was how much it resembled a modern
sports stadium or arena.
Walking around the main passageway behind the stands, one could
imagine throngs of event-goers pushing through on the way to their seats.
You could almost hear the din of the crowd and sense the anticipation of a
spectacle about to begin. The inside walls were honeycombed with large
alcoves that must have once housed vendors and souvenir salesmen.
“Look, it’s the hotdog concession!” said Chris to Allie, who rolled her eyes
and walked ahead.
We came across a small group getting a guided tour in English, and we
listened in briefly. Apparently, the alcoves were actually used by vendors
selling bread, fruits, water, wine, sausages… “Aha!” exclaimed Chris, “She
said sausages! I was right, it’s a hotdog stand!” Marisa and Allie hustled
Chris away from the puzzled stares of the tour group, and we continued on
our way.
Allie was particularly impressed with the facilities beneath the original
arena floor…a veritable rabbit warren of hallways, storage rooms, barracks
and animal pens. She was surprised to learn that the ancient Romans
used to fill the bottom part of the arena with water and recreate famous sea
battles for their audiences.
Just outside of the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine is a notable and
easy-to-photograph memorial that serves as a stepping stone toward the
most storied path of the ancient world, through the heart of the Roman
forum. Actually, the plural “fora” is more correct, as there is more than one
here. The most interesting thing you immediately notice here is how much
lower it is than modern street-level Rome. The earth has a way of
swallowing all things, great and small, given enough time. All this stuff had
to be excavated many years ago.
Walking in the ancient footsteps of emperors, senators, gladiators,
apostles, prophets, soldiers and slaves…one cannot help but feel the
presence of history all around you. Here, Julius Caesar paraded in triumph
after vanquishing the Gauls. Over there, Saint Peter was led to prison in
chains. If you don’t feel the goosebumps in this place, you simply don’t
understand where you are. Physically, it is a ruin. But what a glorious ruin!
St. Peter’s and The Vatican
We’ve seen some majestic churches and cathedrals in our travels. The
cathedrals in Chartres, Toledo and Florence are each uniquely awe-
inspiring, as are St. Paul’s, Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame and San
Marco. But they are all playing in a different league than St. Peter’s. It was
designed not just to inspire you; it was designed to overwhelm and
humble you completely. And it succeeds magnificently.
We really wanted to take the scavi tour that takes you down below into the
ancient, hidden crypts and chambers, but they had a pretty solid minimum
age requirement. Little Allie wasn’t going to make it, and it’s not like we
could just leave her there. Oh well, next time.
The Vatican museums are incredible, and you could conceivably spend a
week there seeing all there is to see. In the art museum, the most
impressive work was the dramatic Ascension by Raphael, a truly powerful
and dynamic work.
Which brings us to the Sistine Chapel. We were able to spend a good,
long time inside this treasure-trove of artistic virtuosity. Everyone raves
(justly) about the ceiling, but the Judgment Day wall is at least as
stunning…and possibly more so. The dazzling lapis blues, the dramatic
ballet of figures, the powerful allegorical meanings all add up to a singular
vision of struggle and triumph; of damnation and salvation. Truly, one of the
world’s greatest art treasures.
The Pantheon
Another “must-see” in Rome, the Pantheon has survived with very little
change over the past 2000 years or so. The semicircular dome atop this
ancient temple was among the greatest engineering feats of the world
when it was built, and remained the world’s largest for many centuries.
Inside, it is an austere but elegant monument. A circular hole at the crown
of the dome is uncovered, so be sure to visit this site on a sunny day when
the warm light comes streaming in (and not on a day when the rain comes
streaming in!). The piazza and immediate vicinity by the Pantheon is a lively
and attractive area with pizzarias, gelaterias, cafes and more.
Next > Rome - part II
our travels
home
contact us
Rome – The Eternal City
Most cities in Europe have long, interesting histories for you to learn and
appreciate and a healthy smattering of ancient sites or relics for you to visit
and explore. Rome doesn’t have a history…it IS history.
What we think we know of Rome before we visit comes to us through the
arts. From classic literature (Cicero to Shakespeare) to modern cinema
(Ben-Hur to Gladiator), our sense of Rome is informed by the grandeur of
its glorious past. But whatever it is you’re expecting before you come here,
that’s not it.
Everywhere you look, Rome is a contradiction. A “harmonious clash”
between the modern and the ancient; between the sacred and the profane;
between well-ordered beauty and utter chaos. And between living and
dying if you don’t watch yourself in the crosswalks.
The Colosseum and Fora
There isn’t much that we can tell you about the world’s most famous
ancient structure that hasn’t already been said better in countless travel
books and online guides. We can only tell you our own impressions of the
Flavian Amphitheater (better known as the Roman Colosseum). And the
one thing that struck us the most was how much it resembled a modern
sports stadium or arena.
Walking around the main passageway behind the stands, one could
imagine throngs of event-goers pushing through on the way to their seats.
You could almost hear the din of the crowd and sense the anticipation of a
spectacle about to begin. The inside walls were honeycombed with large
alcoves that must have once housed vendors and souvenir salesmen.
“Look, it’s the hotdog concession!” said Chris to Allie, who rolled her eyes
and walked ahead.
We came across a small group getting a guided tour in English, and we
listened in briefly. Apparently, the alcoves were actually used by vendors
selling bread, fruits, water, wine, sausages… “Aha!” exclaimed Chris, “She
said sausages! I was right, it’s a hotdog stand!” Marisa and Allie hustled
Chris away from the puzzled stares of the tour group, and we continued on
our way.
Allie was particularly impressed with the facilities beneath the original
arena floor…a veritable rabbit warren of hallways, storage rooms, barracks
and animal pens. She was surprised to learn that the ancient Romans
used to fill the bottom part of the arena with water and recreate famous sea
battles for their audiences.
Just outside of the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine is a notable and
easy-to-photograph memorial that serves as a stepping stone toward the
most storied path of the ancient world, through the heart of the Roman
forum. Actually, the plural “fora” is more correct, as there is more than one
here. The most interesting thing you immediately notice here is how much
lower it is than modern street-level Rome. The earth has a way of
swallowing all things, great and small, given enough time. All this stuff had
to be excavated many years ago.
Walking in the ancient footsteps of emperors, senators, gladiators,
apostles, prophets, soldiers and slaves…one cannot help but feel the
presence of history all around you. Here, Julius Caesar paraded in triumph
after vanquishing the Gauls. Over there, Saint Peter was led to prison in
chains. If you don’t feel the goosebumps in this place, you simply don’t
understand where you are. Physically, it is a ruin. But what a glorious ruin!
St. Peter’s and The Vatican
We’ve seen some majestic churches and cathedrals in our travels. The
cathedrals in Chartres, Toledo and Florence are each uniquely awe-
inspiring, as are St. Paul’s, Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame and San
Marco. But they are all playing in a different league than St. Peter’s. It was
designed not just to inspire you; it was designed to overwhelm and
humble you completely. And it succeeds magnificently.
We really wanted to take the scavi tour that takes you down below into the
ancient, hidden crypts and chambers, but they had a pretty solid minimum
age requirement. Little Allie wasn’t going to make it, and it’s not like we
could just leave her there. Oh well, next time.
The Vatican museums are incredible, and you could conceivably spend a
week there seeing all there is to see. In the art museum, the most
impressive work was the dramatic Ascension by Raphael, a truly powerful
and dynamic work.
Which brings us to the Sistine Chapel. We were able to spend a good,
long time inside this treasure-trove of artistic virtuosity. Everyone raves
(justly) about the ceiling, but the Judgment Day wall is at least as
stunning…and possibly more so. The dazzling lapis blues, the dramatic
ballet of figures, the powerful allegorical meanings all add up to a singular
vision of struggle and triumph; of damnation and salvation. Truly, one of the
world’s greatest art treasures.
The Pantheon
Another “must-see” in Rome, the Pantheon has survived with very little
change over the past 2000 years or so. The semicircular dome atop this
ancient temple was among the greatest engineering feats of the world
when it was built, and remained the world’s largest for many centuries.
Inside, it is an austere but elegant monument. A circular hole at the crown
of the dome is uncovered, so be sure to visit this site on a sunny day when
the warm light comes streaming in (and not on a day when the rain comes
streaming in!). The piazza and immediate vicinity by the Pantheon is a lively
and attractive area with pizzarias, gelaterias, cafes and more.
Next > Rome - part II
our travels
home
contact us
Colosseum
Colosseum
Forum
Vatican & St. Peter's
With the Vatican guards
Vatican museum
