Rome & Venice -
An Italian Odyssey
An Italian Odyssey
Rome - part II
Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori
This is our favorite way to relax and pass the time in Rome…hanging out in
the gorgeous Piazza or the cozy Campo, soaking in the sun and quaffing a
refreshing beverage or enjoying a cold gelato. (We tried the impossibly rich
Tartufo at world-famous Tre Scalini, enjoyed it immensely.) These are two
of the best spots in all of Europe for people-watching!
The most notable feature of Piazza Navona is the remarkably beautiful
Fountain of the Four Rivers in the center, plus the two lesser fountains at
the northern and southern ends of the piazza’s elongated oval. Campo dei
Fiori is the site of an early morning produce market on most days,
providing an excellent photo op for some local color.
Borghese Gallery and Gardens
You have to book tickets for the small but fabulous Borghese gallery in
advance and pick them up on-site. Believe us, it is well worth the extra bit of
planning to do this! It is hard to imagine a building more densely packed
with priceless art treasures in all the world. The sculptures and statuary
alone are absolutely awe-inspiring. We like this museum a lot, because
you can see the entire thing in just a few hours…but literally every single
piece you see is a delight. Not to sound too crass about it, but this place
delivers tremendous cultural bang-for-the-buck!
The surrounding park and gardens offer a welcome respite of calm and
natural splendor in the midst of the chaotic city. The place is lovely, green
and well-kept. And it’s easy to get to, right off the Piazza del Popolo.
Spanish Steps
It’s an interesting-looking set of steps in front of an interesting-looking
church. But if that was all it was, it would not warrant a mention in this
report. The Spanish Steps are notable because of the throngs of people
who congregate there. It is the official meeting place for Roman locals and
visitors alike, and the piazza below the steps is bustling with people
morning, noon and night.
The neighborhood immediately west of the steps, toward the Via del
Corso, is one of our favorite areas in the city. This tight grid of narrow
streets and alleys holds a terrific variety of cafes, boutiques, shops, B&Bs,
restaurants, gelataria…something for everyone! There is also a convenient
pharmacy, which came in handy when Chris and Allie each had a brief
episode of la tourista on our second day there.
Trevi Fountain
We were expecting the world-famous fountain to be a ridiculous tourist-
trap, and there is no shortage of tourists to be found here at all hours. But
the fountain itself is startlingly beautiful in real life, especially when it lights
up in the early evening. Photos can’t really do it justice, because A) it’s hard
to get a wide enough angle to take it all in, and B) all those tourists won’t
get out of your way. But be sure to see this remarkable display of art and
water for yourself. It’s easy to get to, costs nothing, takes just a couple
minutes of your time, and stays in your memories forever!
Castel Sant’Angelo and Bernini Bridge
We found the castle to be an utterly fascinating cross-section of history,
and this was long before we read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons. As
you amble and climb your way up through this imposing structure, you
pass through various eras of history and architecture. From Roman royal
mausoleum, to medieval fortress, to papal residence, to renaissance
palace, to governmental power-center…this place is like Rome in a
nutshell. Once you get to the top, beneath the imposing statue of archangel
Michael and his swift sword, you are rewarded with one of the best
panoramic views in the entire city (especially the views of the Vatican and
St. Peter’s).
To get to the Castel Sant’Angelo, most people cross the river by way of a
beautiful footbridge lined with remarkably lifelike marble statues carved by
the masterful Bernini. In virtually any other city, this collection of religious
statuary would be a prime tourist attraction…and we rate it a “must-see”.
Take your time when you’re crossing this bridge; the closer you get to
these sculted figures, the more lifelike they appear!
Trastevere
The neighborhood across the river from most of the main attractions
remains an enclave of authentic Roman life. Kids play soccer in the
streets. Young professionals walk their dogs. Old guys stand outside a
local café, smoking and telling stories. Nuns walk arm-in-arm. This is a
terrific area to find homestyle cuisine or a delicious pizza, and to immerse
yourself in the full flavor of Roman life.
The Catacombs
A short bus-ride away from the old city walls of Rome are the ancient
subterranean tombs where paleo-Christians kept alive the flame of faith
that would later come to dominate the city, the empire, the continent…and
beyond. We took a tour of these spooky chambers, given by a gregarious
Irish priest with a twinkle in his eye (straight out of central casting!).
The devout find these tours to be moving beyond words, and one can
easily see why. But from a purely historic standpoint, it is worth noting that
this is simply an underground graveyard. The early Christians of Rome
met and held their rituals here because they were in a subversive cult (in
the eyes of those in charge) and didn’t want to get caught. And they weren’t
the only ones; iconography of Mithraism and other eastern “mystery cults”
can be found down there as well. Where many will be inspired by visiting
the site where holders of the “true faith” were cruelly persecuted for their
beliefs…others will see a place where rebellious urban youth hung out to
practice odd ceremonies in the middle of the night. One wonders whether
they perceived any significant distinction between Christ, Mithra,
Zarathustra, or any one of a dozen other messengers of God popular at the
time.
Next > Daytrip to Spoleto
our travels
home
contact us
Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori
This is our favorite way to relax and pass the time in Rome…hanging out in
the gorgeous Piazza or the cozy Campo, soaking in the sun and quaffing a
refreshing beverage or enjoying a cold gelato. (We tried the impossibly rich
Tartufo at world-famous Tre Scalini, enjoyed it immensely.) These are two
of the best spots in all of Europe for people-watching!
The most notable feature of Piazza Navona is the remarkably beautiful
Fountain of the Four Rivers in the center, plus the two lesser fountains at
the northern and southern ends of the piazza’s elongated oval. Campo dei
Fiori is the site of an early morning produce market on most days,
providing an excellent photo op for some local color.
Borghese Gallery and Gardens
You have to book tickets for the small but fabulous Borghese gallery in
advance and pick them up on-site. Believe us, it is well worth the extra bit of
planning to do this! It is hard to imagine a building more densely packed
with priceless art treasures in all the world. The sculptures and statuary
alone are absolutely awe-inspiring. We like this museum a lot, because
you can see the entire thing in just a few hours…but literally every single
piece you see is a delight. Not to sound too crass about it, but this place
delivers tremendous cultural bang-for-the-buck!
The surrounding park and gardens offer a welcome respite of calm and
natural splendor in the midst of the chaotic city. The place is lovely, green
and well-kept. And it’s easy to get to, right off the Piazza del Popolo.
Spanish Steps
It’s an interesting-looking set of steps in front of an interesting-looking
church. But if that was all it was, it would not warrant a mention in this
report. The Spanish Steps are notable because of the throngs of people
who congregate there. It is the official meeting place for Roman locals and
visitors alike, and the piazza below the steps is bustling with people
morning, noon and night.
The neighborhood immediately west of the steps, toward the Via del
Corso, is one of our favorite areas in the city. This tight grid of narrow
streets and alleys holds a terrific variety of cafes, boutiques, shops, B&Bs,
restaurants, gelataria…something for everyone! There is also a convenient
pharmacy, which came in handy when Chris and Allie each had a brief
episode of la tourista on our second day there.
Trevi Fountain
We were expecting the world-famous fountain to be a ridiculous tourist-
trap, and there is no shortage of tourists to be found here at all hours. But
the fountain itself is startlingly beautiful in real life, especially when it lights
up in the early evening. Photos can’t really do it justice, because A) it’s hard
to get a wide enough angle to take it all in, and B) all those tourists won’t
get out of your way. But be sure to see this remarkable display of art and
water for yourself. It’s easy to get to, costs nothing, takes just a couple
minutes of your time, and stays in your memories forever!
Castel Sant’Angelo and Bernini Bridge
We found the castle to be an utterly fascinating cross-section of history,
and this was long before we read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons. As
you amble and climb your way up through this imposing structure, you
pass through various eras of history and architecture. From Roman royal
mausoleum, to medieval fortress, to papal residence, to renaissance
palace, to governmental power-center…this place is like Rome in a
nutshell. Once you get to the top, beneath the imposing statue of archangel
Michael and his swift sword, you are rewarded with one of the best
panoramic views in the entire city (especially the views of the Vatican and
St. Peter’s).
To get to the Castel Sant’Angelo, most people cross the river by way of a
beautiful footbridge lined with remarkably lifelike marble statues carved by
the masterful Bernini. In virtually any other city, this collection of religious
statuary would be a prime tourist attraction…and we rate it a “must-see”.
Take your time when you’re crossing this bridge; the closer you get to
these sculted figures, the more lifelike they appear!
Trastevere
The neighborhood across the river from most of the main attractions
remains an enclave of authentic Roman life. Kids play soccer in the
streets. Young professionals walk their dogs. Old guys stand outside a
local café, smoking and telling stories. Nuns walk arm-in-arm. This is a
terrific area to find homestyle cuisine or a delicious pizza, and to immerse
yourself in the full flavor of Roman life.
The Catacombs
A short bus-ride away from the old city walls of Rome are the ancient
subterranean tombs where paleo-Christians kept alive the flame of faith
that would later come to dominate the city, the empire, the continent…and
beyond. We took a tour of these spooky chambers, given by a gregarious
Irish priest with a twinkle in his eye (straight out of central casting!).
The devout find these tours to be moving beyond words, and one can
easily see why. But from a purely historic standpoint, it is worth noting that
this is simply an underground graveyard. The early Christians of Rome
met and held their rituals here because they were in a subversive cult (in
the eyes of those in charge) and didn’t want to get caught. And they weren’t
the only ones; iconography of Mithraism and other eastern “mystery cults”
can be found down there as well. Where many will be inspired by visiting
the site where holders of the “true faith” were cruelly persecuted for their
beliefs…others will see a place where rebellious urban youth hung out to
practice odd ceremonies in the middle of the night. One wonders whether
they perceived any significant distinction between Christ, Mithra,
Zarathustra, or any one of a dozen other messengers of God popular at the
time.
Next > Daytrip to Spoleto
our travels
home
contact us
Spanish Steps
Piazza del Popolo
Castle Sant'Angelo
St. Peters' from Castle Sant'Angelo
Trevi Fountain
Palazzio Giustizia
