Rome & Venice -
An Italian Odyssey
An Italian Odyssey
Ahhhh, Venezia
The train ride between Rome and Venice takes just a few hours and offers
a relaxing view of the rich, fertile Italian countryside rolling by your window.
This would not be the first time in Venice for Chris or Marisa, but Allie was
a first-timer and we were curious what her reaction would be.
We got of the train at Venice station and moved swiftly down to the water-
busses parked in the Grand Canal beside it. The one we chose was soon
very, very crowded and we nearly suffocated in the heat as we proceeded
down to our stop (at San Zaccharia). Fortunately, our hotel was about 10
steps away from the dock. Sweat-soaked and bleary-eyed, we checked in.
We dumped our bags in the room, and quickly confirmed with the
concierge that they had a laundry service that could take care of our
mountain of dirty clothes by the next day (a very good thing indeed!). We
then proceeded down to Piazza San Marco, where Allie got acquainted with
the legions of pigeons.
Ah, the pigeons. Of all the splendors and unique experiences offered by
the ‘Jewel of the Adriatic,’ none could match the charms of that famous
flock of feathered friends…Allie’s Pigeon Pals. No matter where we went
over the next few days, no matter what we did…Allie wanted to know how
soon we would return to the Piazza to feed the birds!
This was the third visit to Venice for Marisa and the second for Chris, and
there is nothing we like better than to spend the day wandering through
that tangled maze of alleys, bridges, campos and walkways. There really is
no other city like it on earth. There are so many sights and sounds around
every corner; so many beautiful, colorful buildings along the canals; so
many gorgeous little churches you can duck into and discover rare art
treasures. And it’s all accessible on foot…car-free and carefree!
On this visit, we visited some of the star attractions we had neglected the
last time. The Doge’s Palace was very impressive on the inside, but
unfortunately the Bridge of Sighs and all areas it connects to were closed
due to water leaks. We spent some time inside Saint Mark’s Cathedral,
which can be dark & spooky until your eyes adjust. And we rode the
elevator up to the top of the Campanile for the best view in town. If we had
known there was an elevator in there, we would have done it on our first trip!
But for the most part, we explored outside the areas beyond the well-worn
path of the daytrippers. This is the real way to see Venice…the “controlled
directional misadventure.” Get lost on purpose, in search of something
interesting (or at least photogenic).
Chris had a great time wandering the less touristed areas, such as the old
Jewish quarter (home of the original “ghetto”) and the home of Tintoretto,
with statues of “Moors” built into the foundations of the surrounding
buildings. And the open-air markets near the Rialto bridge are always a
great place to soak in the local color.
Our great daytrip in Venice was venturing out to the islands of Burano and
Torcello in the Venetian lagoon. Burano is a tiny, picturesque fishing village
with extraordinary, vibrantly painted homes. We enjoyed it a great deal, and
had a nice, quiet lunch at a tiny little cucina with an outdoor table or two.
Torcello is, today, nearly deserted but was once a population center in the
area. The only significant structures that still stand from this period are a
1000-year-old church and associated buildings. Fascinating Byzantine-era
frescoes still adorn the walls of Santa Maria Assunta, and an audio guide
is available (which we recommend).
The one must-do tourist attraction in Venice, however, is the gondola ride.
If it was just grown-ups on this voyage, we’d think twice about splurging on
such a touristy affectation. But how in hades do you bring an 8-year-old to
Venice and NOT go for the gondola ride? So we went…and you know
what? It was great. The gondolier was a genuinely nice guy who didn’t try to
sing (thankfully), and the ride took us through scenic, romantic little canals
plus the Grand Canal itself. It’s still ridiculously expensive, but we only live
once. Right?
Our best meals on this phase of the trip were at Trattoria Sempione in San
Marco (where Marisa & Chris had lunched 10 years before; see the report
from our first Italy trip) and at Trattoria alla Madonna near the Rialto Bridge,
owned by the same people who ran our hotel, so we got a nice discount.
Next > The logistics
our travels
home
contact us
The train ride between Rome and Venice takes just a few hours and offers
a relaxing view of the rich, fertile Italian countryside rolling by your window.
This would not be the first time in Venice for Chris or Marisa, but Allie was
a first-timer and we were curious what her reaction would be.
We got of the train at Venice station and moved swiftly down to the water-
busses parked in the Grand Canal beside it. The one we chose was soon
very, very crowded and we nearly suffocated in the heat as we proceeded
down to our stop (at San Zaccharia). Fortunately, our hotel was about 10
steps away from the dock. Sweat-soaked and bleary-eyed, we checked in.
We dumped our bags in the room, and quickly confirmed with the
concierge that they had a laundry service that could take care of our
mountain of dirty clothes by the next day (a very good thing indeed!). We
then proceeded down to Piazza San Marco, where Allie got acquainted with
the legions of pigeons.
Ah, the pigeons. Of all the splendors and unique experiences offered by
the ‘Jewel of the Adriatic,’ none could match the charms of that famous
flock of feathered friends…Allie’s Pigeon Pals. No matter where we went
over the next few days, no matter what we did…Allie wanted to know how
soon we would return to the Piazza to feed the birds!
This was the third visit to Venice for Marisa and the second for Chris, and
there is nothing we like better than to spend the day wandering through
that tangled maze of alleys, bridges, campos and walkways. There really is
no other city like it on earth. There are so many sights and sounds around
every corner; so many beautiful, colorful buildings along the canals; so
many gorgeous little churches you can duck into and discover rare art
treasures. And it’s all accessible on foot…car-free and carefree!
On this visit, we visited some of the star attractions we had neglected the
last time. The Doge’s Palace was very impressive on the inside, but
unfortunately the Bridge of Sighs and all areas it connects to were closed
due to water leaks. We spent some time inside Saint Mark’s Cathedral,
which can be dark & spooky until your eyes adjust. And we rode the
elevator up to the top of the Campanile for the best view in town. If we had
known there was an elevator in there, we would have done it on our first trip!
But for the most part, we explored outside the areas beyond the well-worn
path of the daytrippers. This is the real way to see Venice…the “controlled
directional misadventure.” Get lost on purpose, in search of something
interesting (or at least photogenic).
Chris had a great time wandering the less touristed areas, such as the old
Jewish quarter (home of the original “ghetto”) and the home of Tintoretto,
with statues of “Moors” built into the foundations of the surrounding
buildings. And the open-air markets near the Rialto bridge are always a
great place to soak in the local color.
Our great daytrip in Venice was venturing out to the islands of Burano and
Torcello in the Venetian lagoon. Burano is a tiny, picturesque fishing village
with extraordinary, vibrantly painted homes. We enjoyed it a great deal, and
had a nice, quiet lunch at a tiny little cucina with an outdoor table or two.
Torcello is, today, nearly deserted but was once a population center in the
area. The only significant structures that still stand from this period are a
1000-year-old church and associated buildings. Fascinating Byzantine-era
frescoes still adorn the walls of Santa Maria Assunta, and an audio guide
is available (which we recommend).
The one must-do tourist attraction in Venice, however, is the gondola ride.
If it was just grown-ups on this voyage, we’d think twice about splurging on
such a touristy affectation. But how in hades do you bring an 8-year-old to
Venice and NOT go for the gondola ride? So we went…and you know
what? It was great. The gondolier was a genuinely nice guy who didn’t try to
sing (thankfully), and the ride took us through scenic, romantic little canals
plus the Grand Canal itself. It’s still ridiculously expensive, but we only live
once. Right?
Our best meals on this phase of the trip were at Trattoria Sempione in San
Marco (where Marisa & Chris had lunched 10 years before; see the report
from our first Italy trip) and at Trattoria alla Madonna near the Rialto Bridge,
owned by the same people who ran our hotel, so we got a nice discount.
Next > The logistics
our travels
home
contact us
Venice, Grand Canal
Allie's feathered friends
The Dorsodurro
Burano
