Rome & Venice -
An Italian Odyssey
The logistics
Preparation
As usual for our trips, we bought a few very helpful guide books, did a lot of
research and consulted with the online travel gurus (especially those at
fodors.com). The DK Eyewitness books for Venice and Rome were
particularly useful. We also purchased highly detailed, laminated street
maps of both Venice and Rome and studied them intently before and
during the trip. We cannot stress this enough: don’t try to find your way
around either of these cities without a good map. This is especially true of
Venice, a notorious maze of a city that resembles a navigational Rubik’s
Cube.
Getting there and back, and getting around
We flew into and out of Rome FCO on United/Lufthansa (Star Alliance)
flights, connecting in Munich on the way in and Frankfurt on the way back
home. Ground transport from the airport was arranged through our hotel,
and our driver took great pride in pointing out several key sites in his
ageless city along the way and providing a rich running commentary in
semi-comprehensible English. We took the train from Rome to Venice
midway through our sojourn, returning on the next-to-last day. In general,
there were no notable incidents, accidents or missteps…all went smoothly
and on-schedule. Logistically speaking, this was just about the easiest trip
we’ve taken.
Accommodations
Hotel Mozart, Rome
For our stay in Rome, we booked the Hotel Mozart. It is located in the
neighborhood between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo, just a
few steps from the Via del Corso and its trendy boutiques and shops. We
reserved a deluxe triple room, and found it to be more spacious and
comfortable than one might expect for 3-star accommodations. We
enjoyed a beautiful walk-out terrace (nice bonus!) and a large bathroom
with lots of marble and excellent hot-water pressure (always important).
The downstairs sitting room was rather nice, as was the breakfast room.
Breakfast was better than average. We have heard some negative reports
from others on the Mozart, so there may well be a large degree of variance
between different rooms there. So caveat emptor…but we liked it just fine.
Savoia & Jolanda, Venice
In Venice, we stayed at the three-star Savoia & Jolanda, on the Riva degli
Schiavonni (on the Grand Canal, just around the corner from Piazza San
Marco and the Doge’s Palace). It sits right between the Danieli and the
Londra Palace, two well-known, upscale 4-star hotels. We booked a two-
bedroom suite, which turned out to be the same size as a regular hotel
room but with a wall running through the middle of it. It’s the sort of place
where you have to walk sideways to get around the bed, but it did have its
share of good things going for it. The location was outstanding; our room
overlooked the lovely church and campo of San Zaccharia, and steps from
the front door of the hotel was a vaporetto (water bus) stop. It also had a
very efficient concierge who spoke excellent English. Breakfast was about
what you’d expect from a 3-star European hotel.
Colonna Palace, Rome
For our last night, we traveled back to Rome and spent the night at the
Colonna Palace, a 4-star hotel on the very centrally located Piazza
Montecitorio. Although rated higher than the Mozart, we really didn't like it
quite as much -- proof that the ratings have more to do with amenities than
quality. True, we were 'upgraded' to a junior suite on a high floor, with a
nice south view. But the room decor was a bit 70s-ish and could have
stood some updating. Still, the hotel does have some merits, in addition to
its location. The service was accommodating, if not exceptionally warm,
and the rooftop terrace -- where breakfast is served -- offers a great view in
most directions.
our travels
home
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Ponte Sant'Angelo
Via dei Greci, Hotel Mozart in the distance
View from roof deck, Colonna Palace
Breakfast on the roof deck, Colonna
Palace