12 spectacular days in
sometimes sunny Scotland
sometimes sunny Scotland
Western Highlands
Message: Day Eight: Skye to Oban.
We said goodbye to the coos, Angus and John -- the highland cattle who
reside at the Uig Hotel, then headed out towards Oban. Because the
weather was decent, we decided to take a detour out the road to Elgol. It
was a very narrow and difficult road to drive -- very scenic along the way as
we circled the base of the Cuillins, but not much to see once out at Elgol
(clouds).
Back to Broadford, then down to catch the ferry at Armadale. We'd called
the day before to reserve a spot on the 2pm ferry. Turns out it probably
wasn't necessary. Our ferry was not full, and the man checking us in wasn't
at all interested in our confirmation number. But most people advised
having a reservation, as it can be full at this time of year, so better safe than
sorry. One other note: the road down to Armadale is not a major one but
looks like it will be soon, as there is substantial construction. If you need to
catch a particular ferry, allow some time to drive there.
It was very cold and windy during the 30-minute crossing, so we and most
others opted to stay inside. We followed a Wallace Arnold tour bus off the
ferry, and that turned out to be a very good thing. We're usually not big fans
of tour buses, but this particular one carved a nice path for us and kept the
oncoming trucks at bay as we drove the very narrow, winding road from
Mallaig toward Fort William. We'll add that the scenery here was some of
the best of the trip, when Marisa wasn't concentrating on the road, the
developing rainstorm and the back of the tour bus.
Along the way, we caught site of the steam train headed toward
Glenfinnan, so we speeded up as best we could (Marisa doesn't drive as
fast as Chris) and reached the parking lot of the Glenfinnan visitor center,
overlooking the viaduct, just as a crowd began assembling to see the train
make its crossing. Apparently they all knew this was coming, we just
lucked into it -- fortunately, because this was a real highlight for Allie, a
huge Harry Potter fan who has read each book in the series at least ten
times and seen the movies almost as much.
From there, we headed through Fort William and on down to Oban through
many picturesque towns. The rain cleared. Oban is a charming harbor
town, and we wandered through the main streets and along the water for a
bit and then stopped for an Internet check. You don't know how hard it is for
Cubs fans to go almost a week without seeing any scores! Then we
happened into The Studio (reviewed above) for the best meal of our trip.
We were hoping for a beautiful sunset over the harbor, but it didn't quite
happen. A nice stroll along the Corran Esplanade, however, was an
adequate consolation prize.
Day Nine: Kilmartin Glen and Oban.
Excellent breakfast at the hotel, particularly the porridge. This morning we
had errands -- mail, laundry, and downloading digital pics from our CF
cards to CD. The latter, by the way, were no problem. The hotel directed us
to a relatively reasonable launderette, and there were several photo shops
to choose from for the CD (as there were in most towns we passed
through). Then we were on our way to see some really old artifacts -- the
sights of Kilmartin Glen. It is a nice, 25-mile drive there, but takes almost
an hour due to the winding, hilly terrain. Once in Kilmartin, we visited the
church to see the carved stones and Celtic crosses. Then we drove out to
see the standing stones, which are located in a sheep pasture. Watch
where you step! Then a quick walk to the 5,000-year-old stone circle; not as
big as Stonehenge, but older. Then down the road to the burial cairns. Yes,
Chris and Allie actually went inside one of them, while Marisa was freaking
out. It is about five miles further down the road to Dunadd Fort, a 6th
century fort that is mostly just a hill now, and the 5,000-year-old rock
carvings. We hiked up to the rock carvings, a bit more of a climb than we
expected, but how often do you see things like this in their original setting?
Then we drove a few miles further on to Lochgilphead for a late lunch. We
found one licensed place open, Smiddy's, which is down a small alley. We
had a nice, quick lunch, then headed back to climb Dunadd Fort just as it
started to rain. Allie stuck her foot into the ancient foot mold used by rulers
in their coronation ceremonies, and was surprised to find her foot was
bigger (not surprising to us, her feet are bigger than Marisa's).
Back in Oban, we did some more strolling and had a bar dinner at
Coasters. Okay pub food, more great Loch Etive mussels, and a
spectacular view of the harbor. We had to clear out by 8pm, when kids are
no longer allowed in pubs. But that was fortuitous for Allie, as we ended up
passing the movie theater just as Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban
was starting. Guess how we ended our evening?
Day Ten: Glencoe and Inveraray.
Today didn't start off on a good note. The hotel residents who were part of
the Rick Steves tour had an early departure, and all the porridge was gone
before we got down to breakfast. We'll have to make a point of being there
when they open up tomorrow!
We drove up toward Glencoe, and started by trying an easy hike near the
visitor center. That didn't last long when the trail turned into a gigantic mud
puddle. So we drove on and stopped at some of the trailheads for views
and pictures. It was a reasonably good weather day at that point, and we
noticed most of the parking areas were very full by mid-morning. It is a
beautiful valley, and reading up on the history first makes it all the more
impressive.
With more time, a more serious hike would have been in order. So on we
drove on along Loch Lomond and toward Inveraray, with a brief lunch stop.
Apparently, we still hadn't gotten the hang of the fact that, in many places,
you have to order up at the bar. Lesson learned, then on through the
beautiful pass known as Rest and Be Thankful! Yes, that is really the
name, and it is worth the stop.
We spent some time strolling in Inveraray, a pleasant town on Loch Fyne
that is distinctive with its whitewashed buildings. We visited the castle,
which is inhabited. Access is extremely restricted. We also climbed the bell
tower and did a little shopping. Allie had yet to purchase any souvenirs and
badly wanted a kilt. After trying on a few, she opted for a grey t-shirt and a
knit cap instead (which was also easier on the wallet).
Back to Oban for our reservation at The Studio. The meal wasn't quite as
good as the first night, but it was close. We were stuffed, so we walked a
little of it off on the Corran Esplanade and then packed.
Day Eleven: Oban to Linlithgow.
As planned, we were down for breakfast right at 8:30 so as not to miss the
porridge. Good thing, so were all the other guests.
We started our day at Dunstaffnage Castle. We weren't familiar with it, but it
was covered by our Historic Scotland pass. We figured we'd be the only
ones there right at the 9:30 opening time. Wrong. It is quite interesting and
has a nice position right on the water.
From there, we drove straight through to the Trossachs National Park and
stopped at the end of Loch Katrine. There is a nice walking/bike path along
the loch, and a place to rent bikes or (imagine this) little golf carts. Had it
not been raining, we would have loved a bike ride and picnic lunch. The
rain thwarted our first attempt to walk along the path, so we grabbed lunch
in the adjacent café. Then, with rain gear in hand, we started out along the
path again. Of course, the rain stopped. So we enjoyed our little walk a
mile or so out and then back.
Our next stop was Inchmahome Priory on nearby Lake of Menteith (the only
lake not called a loch). There is a small boat to take visitors out to this
ruined priory in the middle of the lake. A beautiful, serene setting. This
would also be a great place for a picnic, as some families were doing.
Unfortunately, time was moving on and we needed to get to our next hotel,
near Linlithgow (see Carriden House, reviewed above). Fortunately,
Carriden House provided a very detailed map and directions, or we might
still be driving around there looking for it.
We headed into Linlithgow for dinner. Visiting Linlithgow Palace was
almost an afterthought, but we still had about an hour until closing time so
we decided to stop. Excellent idea! This ruined palace is mostly standing
and has literally dozens of walkways through the rooms, up the towers and
into the dungeons. It was fascinating and well worth a visit; one of the
favorites on our trip. We cleared out just before they locked the car park for
the night, then set off for dinner in town at the Four Marys, a popular pub.
Food was decent. We enjoyed our brief stop in Linlithgow; it seems like a
very nice little town, and there are other things we would have liked to have
done in the area (Blackness Castle, House of Binns).
As we were due at the airport at 6:30 am in the morning, we headed back
to enjoy our own little castle for the evening. Chris and Allie explored the
very spooky old graveyard adjacent to it, then we retired to the lounge for a
little wine and cards.
Day Twelve: Going home.
All good things must come to an end, and this was a truly good vacation. It
was a lot of travel and a lot of work, but very enjoyable, and made even
more so by all the very friendly and welcoming people we met along the
way. Everywhere we stayed, we wished we had longer to enjoy it.
Our transfer to the airport was quick -- 15 minutes. We found the rental car
return without a problem (Marisa is still scarred from making four laps
around the Dublin airport, stopping several times to ask the same police
officer for directions). Check-in and security were a breeze. We killed the
last of our pounds in the duty free shops, then relaxed in the bmi lounge
until boarding time. We would love to still be in Scotland, but at least the cat
is happy to have us home.
Next > All the logistics (air, car, hotels, food, and more)
our travels
home
contact us
Message: Day Eight: Skye to Oban.
We said goodbye to the coos, Angus and John -- the highland cattle who
reside at the Uig Hotel, then headed out towards Oban. Because the
weather was decent, we decided to take a detour out the road to Elgol. It
was a very narrow and difficult road to drive -- very scenic along the way as
we circled the base of the Cuillins, but not much to see once out at Elgol
(clouds).
Back to Broadford, then down to catch the ferry at Armadale. We'd called
the day before to reserve a spot on the 2pm ferry. Turns out it probably
wasn't necessary. Our ferry was not full, and the man checking us in wasn't
at all interested in our confirmation number. But most people advised
having a reservation, as it can be full at this time of year, so better safe than
sorry. One other note: the road down to Armadale is not a major one but
looks like it will be soon, as there is substantial construction. If you need to
catch a particular ferry, allow some time to drive there.
It was very cold and windy during the 30-minute crossing, so we and most
others opted to stay inside. We followed a Wallace Arnold tour bus off the
ferry, and that turned out to be a very good thing. We're usually not big fans
of tour buses, but this particular one carved a nice path for us and kept the
oncoming trucks at bay as we drove the very narrow, winding road from
Mallaig toward Fort William. We'll add that the scenery here was some of
the best of the trip, when Marisa wasn't concentrating on the road, the
developing rainstorm and the back of the tour bus.
Along the way, we caught site of the steam train headed toward
Glenfinnan, so we speeded up as best we could (Marisa doesn't drive as
fast as Chris) and reached the parking lot of the Glenfinnan visitor center,
overlooking the viaduct, just as a crowd began assembling to see the train
make its crossing. Apparently they all knew this was coming, we just
lucked into it -- fortunately, because this was a real highlight for Allie, a
huge Harry Potter fan who has read each book in the series at least ten
times and seen the movies almost as much.
From there, we headed through Fort William and on down to Oban through
many picturesque towns. The rain cleared. Oban is a charming harbor
town, and we wandered through the main streets and along the water for a
bit and then stopped for an Internet check. You don't know how hard it is for
Cubs fans to go almost a week without seeing any scores! Then we
happened into The Studio (reviewed above) for the best meal of our trip.
We were hoping for a beautiful sunset over the harbor, but it didn't quite
happen. A nice stroll along the Corran Esplanade, however, was an
adequate consolation prize.
Day Nine: Kilmartin Glen and Oban.
Excellent breakfast at the hotel, particularly the porridge. This morning we
had errands -- mail, laundry, and downloading digital pics from our CF
cards to CD. The latter, by the way, were no problem. The hotel directed us
to a relatively reasonable launderette, and there were several photo shops
to choose from for the CD (as there were in most towns we passed
through). Then we were on our way to see some really old artifacts -- the
sights of Kilmartin Glen. It is a nice, 25-mile drive there, but takes almost
an hour due to the winding, hilly terrain. Once in Kilmartin, we visited the
church to see the carved stones and Celtic crosses. Then we drove out to
see the standing stones, which are located in a sheep pasture. Watch
where you step! Then a quick walk to the 5,000-year-old stone circle; not as
big as Stonehenge, but older. Then down the road to the burial cairns. Yes,
Chris and Allie actually went inside one of them, while Marisa was freaking
out. It is about five miles further down the road to Dunadd Fort, a 6th
century fort that is mostly just a hill now, and the 5,000-year-old rock
carvings. We hiked up to the rock carvings, a bit more of a climb than we
expected, but how often do you see things like this in their original setting?
Then we drove a few miles further on to Lochgilphead for a late lunch. We
found one licensed place open, Smiddy's, which is down a small alley. We
had a nice, quick lunch, then headed back to climb Dunadd Fort just as it
started to rain. Allie stuck her foot into the ancient foot mold used by rulers
in their coronation ceremonies, and was surprised to find her foot was
bigger (not surprising to us, her feet are bigger than Marisa's).
Back in Oban, we did some more strolling and had a bar dinner at
Coasters. Okay pub food, more great Loch Etive mussels, and a
spectacular view of the harbor. We had to clear out by 8pm, when kids are
no longer allowed in pubs. But that was fortuitous for Allie, as we ended up
passing the movie theater just as Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban
was starting. Guess how we ended our evening?
Day Ten: Glencoe and Inveraray.
Today didn't start off on a good note. The hotel residents who were part of
the Rick Steves tour had an early departure, and all the porridge was gone
before we got down to breakfast. We'll have to make a point of being there
when they open up tomorrow!
We drove up toward Glencoe, and started by trying an easy hike near the
visitor center. That didn't last long when the trail turned into a gigantic mud
puddle. So we drove on and stopped at some of the trailheads for views
and pictures. It was a reasonably good weather day at that point, and we
noticed most of the parking areas were very full by mid-morning. It is a
beautiful valley, and reading up on the history first makes it all the more
impressive.
With more time, a more serious hike would have been in order. So on we
drove on along Loch Lomond and toward Inveraray, with a brief lunch stop.
Apparently, we still hadn't gotten the hang of the fact that, in many places,
you have to order up at the bar. Lesson learned, then on through the
beautiful pass known as Rest and Be Thankful! Yes, that is really the
name, and it is worth the stop.
We spent some time strolling in Inveraray, a pleasant town on Loch Fyne
that is distinctive with its whitewashed buildings. We visited the castle,
which is inhabited. Access is extremely restricted. We also climbed the bell
tower and did a little shopping. Allie had yet to purchase any souvenirs and
badly wanted a kilt. After trying on a few, she opted for a grey t-shirt and a
knit cap instead (which was also easier on the wallet).
Back to Oban for our reservation at The Studio. The meal wasn't quite as
good as the first night, but it was close. We were stuffed, so we walked a
little of it off on the Corran Esplanade and then packed.
Day Eleven: Oban to Linlithgow.
As planned, we were down for breakfast right at 8:30 so as not to miss the
porridge. Good thing, so were all the other guests.
We started our day at Dunstaffnage Castle. We weren't familiar with it, but it
was covered by our Historic Scotland pass. We figured we'd be the only
ones there right at the 9:30 opening time. Wrong. It is quite interesting and
has a nice position right on the water.
From there, we drove straight through to the Trossachs National Park and
stopped at the end of Loch Katrine. There is a nice walking/bike path along
the loch, and a place to rent bikes or (imagine this) little golf carts. Had it
not been raining, we would have loved a bike ride and picnic lunch. The
rain thwarted our first attempt to walk along the path, so we grabbed lunch
in the adjacent café. Then, with rain gear in hand, we started out along the
path again. Of course, the rain stopped. So we enjoyed our little walk a
mile or so out and then back.
Our next stop was Inchmahome Priory on nearby Lake of Menteith (the only
lake not called a loch). There is a small boat to take visitors out to this
ruined priory in the middle of the lake. A beautiful, serene setting. This
would also be a great place for a picnic, as some families were doing.
Unfortunately, time was moving on and we needed to get to our next hotel,
near Linlithgow (see Carriden House, reviewed above). Fortunately,
Carriden House provided a very detailed map and directions, or we might
still be driving around there looking for it.
We headed into Linlithgow for dinner. Visiting Linlithgow Palace was
almost an afterthought, but we still had about an hour until closing time so
we decided to stop. Excellent idea! This ruined palace is mostly standing
and has literally dozens of walkways through the rooms, up the towers and
into the dungeons. It was fascinating and well worth a visit; one of the
favorites on our trip. We cleared out just before they locked the car park for
the night, then set off for dinner in town at the Four Marys, a popular pub.
Food was decent. We enjoyed our brief stop in Linlithgow; it seems like a
very nice little town, and there are other things we would have liked to have
done in the area (Blackness Castle, House of Binns).
As we were due at the airport at 6:30 am in the morning, we headed back
to enjoy our own little castle for the evening. Chris and Allie explored the
very spooky old graveyard adjacent to it, then we retired to the lounge for a
little wine and cards.
Day Twelve: Going home.
All good things must come to an end, and this was a truly good vacation. It
was a lot of travel and a lot of work, but very enjoyable, and made even
more so by all the very friendly and welcoming people we met along the
way. Everywhere we stayed, we wished we had longer to enjoy it.
Our transfer to the airport was quick -- 15 minutes. We found the rental car
return without a problem (Marisa is still scarred from making four laps
around the Dublin airport, stopping several times to ask the same police
officer for directions). Check-in and security were a breeze. We killed the
last of our pounds in the duty free shops, then relaxed in the bmi lounge
until boarding time. We would love to still be in Scotland, but at least the cat
is happy to have us home.
Next > All the logistics (air, car, hotels, food, and more)
our travels
home
contact us
Oban
Kilmartin Graveyard
Kilmartin Glen, standing stones
Loch Leven, near Glencoe
Rest and be Thankful
Inveraray
Sunset over Oban Harbor
Oban Harbor
Inchmahome Priory
Linlithgow Palace
